A trip into the Future: “Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg”
I've been doing a lot of thinking about the Outdoor Industry, particularly since my visit to Performance Days Fabric Fair in Munich last week.
I feel there is a sense of 'stuckness' in the industry. So many designers, developers, technicians, and product managers can see the issues but feel unable to say and do the things needed to make changes for fear they will be left out of work, and unable to pay the bills!
I'm a fan of Rob Hopkins' "How to Fall in Love with the Future". So I decided to take my own trip forward in time and see what the future holds for designers like me and how working in outdoor apparel could be!
I stepped into my time machine!
On this particular trip forward in time I chose to visit one of a new breed of outdoor companies. “Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg” is a company that doesn't just make stuff to sell for the highest profit. It has no shareholders demanding huge returns at the expense of the organisation’s ethos and although it does make and sell outdoor apparel and equipment it is also concerned with access to, enjoyment of and safety in the great outdoors, whilst also acting as an advocate for and custodian of nature itself.
I particularly wanted to find out about the role of an apparel designer in these not so distant future times. As a designer in the present day I wanted to see how “Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg” approaches product creation and supply and how that sits in the bigger company framework.
Product Creation: New Legislation.
The first thing I learned was that ‘technical clothing’ is now catergorised into 3 main silos:
Professional use / safety apparel.
High performance activity focussed apparel.
Apparel for every day participation.
These categories are predominantly the result of new legislation that drastically limits the use of certain materials.
The legislation means that materials with no safe/environmentally sound end of life solution can no longer be used for mass produced garments. This was introduced as part of the effort to ‘turn off the tap’ that was flooding the market with synthetic fibres, complex fibre blends and chemical coatings that could not be separated, recycled, or disposed of without causing harm to the planet.
The legislation allows those working in extreme conditions for whom high performance is a matter of health and safety to still be clothed appropriately; but means those taking part in more leisure based activities only have access to garments which balance appropriate performance with environmentally sound parameters.
In short, garments that we would consider fit for Everest or Arctic exploration can no longer be made or bought by any one with the budget. Such garments are never on sale on the high street or accessible to the general public to buy as they please.
As a result of this legislation there has been a massive boost in investment for technical textile developments. There has been a huge push in R+D around materials and design to try and emulate high performance of the past with natural and next gen materials. Time and money is also being channeled into perfecting recycling and other ways of dealing with end of life textiles. All of these channels are now finally being supported by organisations and government bodies allowing progress to be made in a realistic and timely manner. One of the goals is that those restricted materials can be completely phased out and safer circular alternatives brought forward to replace them.
Product Creation: Design, Development, and Manufacture.
So how does garment design work at “Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg”
Those designing tier 1 products work very closely with the professionals who use the kit; predominantly designing and making bespoke items for individuals or teams to suit their very particular needs. This ensures absolute fitness for purpose.
Garments are often returned to the company at different points in their life to be repaired or modified so that they can continue to be worn and function appropriately.
Designers working on the lower 2 tiers create much smaller collections of garments, relevant to the environmental conditions of the place they will be used and with realistic briefs. They regularly consult with end users and take part in relevant outdoor activities to help inform their designs. They also keep up to speed with new innovations and technical developments, but implement these when it serves as a beneficial upgrade for product and planet, and never simply to jump on a bandwagon, or provide a marketing story!
No garment is approved for production without meeting a robust set of criteria around end use, realistic performance levels, fitness for purpose, and end of life options.
“Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg” operates on a pre-order order basis so there is a selection of garments on offer for customers to try on; then they can order what they need and it will be made as part of a small production batch. This ensures there is no oversupply of apparel, minimises waste and also lends itself to smaller manufacturing set ups which exist in the same country as the companies head office - making factory visits and communications much more efficient.
The proximity of manufacturing also allows a more bespoke service option that allows customers to make changes to certain elements of the designs to cater to individual needs and tastes. This way of working allows a lot more inclusivity - as garments can be tailored much more easily to individuals.
Buying a product from “Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg” involves a lot more human interaction, with customers visiting one of the company’s hubs in person to discuss what they need, to see and touch fabrics and to try garments on and get in person advice rather than just buying based on some photos and marketing spiel on a website! The time and money and care invested in any new outdoor garment is significant and that has really helped customers to understand the work and resources that go into every item in turn they have a much greater sense of value for what they buy. And of course the in- person interaction allows information to flow back in the other direction too so designers are always getting feedback and input for what works well and where modifications might be needed.
Beyond Making and Selling: Knowledge Sharing.
Connections between industry and education are much stronger than they are today, the role of the designer almost always involves the sharing and passing on of knowledge. The team of designers, technicians, fabric specialists and material scientists from “Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg”
all go into schools and universities to deliver specialist lectures, and workshops.
This starts at primary level and continues all the way up to more specialised subjects at university level.
Beyond Making and Selling: Repair and Reuse.
Because all garments are designed to be repaired, then repurposed before finally being retired for recycling; “Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg” supports a number of repair and reuse hubs.
These allow customers to get their gear fixed, or reworked wherever they live. These hubs always have a selection of preloved kit, for those who can't or don't want to wait for pre-ordered clothing and it also ensures that kit that is no longer needed by the original owner gets further use in fresh hands! The company also works with affiliated rental companies for those one-off outdoor adventures that require kit that sits outside your day to day needs.
More and more companies are starting to emerge that follow the same structure and principles as “Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg” catering for different sport and activity specialisms. This means there are still plenty of alternatives for people to access kit that appeals to their individual taste levels and needs.
Beyond Making and Selling: Outdoor Education and Connection.
The changes in legislation around materials and the alternative way of creating and supplying products has also had another positive side effect.
People have become much more accepting of some of the conditions they might find themselves in in the outdoors. Instead of assuming they must armour up against them they are instead seeking to increase their knowledge around keeping safe and well when out in nature in ways that have little to do with their clothes.
“Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg” therefore doesn't just make stuff to sell but also educates.
Workshops, short courses and one or multi day sessions are all on offer covering everything from navigation skills, and first aid, to lessons about local flora and fauna .
The company also offers group hikes and activities catering for all levels of ability. These are less about outdoor education and more about simple enjoyment and connection with people and nature. All these activities and workshops are also available to the companies designers - in fact participation by employees is positively encouraged.
Returning to the present.
Now with mind firmly back in the present day I’m wondering what the rest of the industry would make of “Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg”
Does it appeal? Does it resonate with others? Are there designers, developers, technicians and outdoor enthusiasts that see it as a place they’d like to work?
If the answer is yes then what steps can we take as an industry and as individuals to move towards the world of “Øutdoor 2.0 Ørg”.?